Our 1985 Eagle 10 Bus
Conversion Project
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Adding a third roof air
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New muffler system
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Treadle valve for air-over-hydraulic clutch system
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Since our maiden voyage in March, 2006, I
continue to upgrade the bus.
For one of our summer trips, I added a
third roof air. We had hoped that the two front units would be enough to
cool the bus while driving. It turns out that the huge amount of glass,
and significant air leakage around the door (and other areas) coupled with very
high outside temperatures proved that we need to add dash air. The
addition of the third AC really allows us to keep the bus cool under the worst
conditions while parked. It also gives us some flexibility as to which AC
to use under various conditions.
I had previously discussed the muffler
that I had planned to use and then ended up building my own baffle system.
That system turned out to be unbearably loud. At the Pomona FMCA rally, I
purchased a high performance stainless steel muffler that would fit into the
rather limited area I had to work with. It is still rather loud, but
acceptable.
The last photo shows the beginning of an
air-over-hydraulic system that I hope to perfect for the bus clutch system.
The Volvo clutch pedal and master cylinder I used ended up causing problems.
I have installed an automotive master cylinder that currently is operated by a
hand lever. I have tried using the brake treadle valve shown, along
with an air brake chamber to activate the clutch. My first trial did not
give me the control I needed for smooth/predicable engagement. I am again
using the hand lever until I get a chance to rework the air-over-hydraulic
system.
Screen Capture of Silverleaf
Engine Computer Datalogger/GPS computer
One of the best additions to the bus is
the Silverleaf VMSpc software which captures the engine information from the
Series 60 DDEC computer system. The software is free (http://www.silverleafelectronics.com/).
The "black box" adapter which connects to the DDEC diagnostic connector must be
purchased from Silverleaf at a cost of about $400.00 I use a laptop and
divide the screen into 1/3 Silverleaf and 2/3 Delorme Street Atlas GPS system
(see above).
When I first installed the system, I
thought I was just adding a toy to feed my insatiable need for data.
However, it has now become my complete dash. It provides all of the
information I need to monitor the engine variables and driving information.
I find that the speedometer and tachometer are very accurate and easy to read.
The speedometer is of particular value on tight twisty roads where the
"advisory" speed signs must be adhered to!
The fuel used is measured by the DDEC and
is very accurate. I use that as my fuel gauge. The odometer on the
left is reset at each fuel-up. This odometer makes it very easy to monitor
fuel used since the last fuel stop.
I have four odometers to keep track of
various situations. The two shown are for the fuel-up information and the
trip information. In addition, under the map, I have two additional
odometers (one for total miles, and one for daily miles).
The Silverleaf is also very good at
providing error codes in plain English terms. It keeps a complete history
of the PID and SID codes which can be a great help in diagnosing intermittent
problems. It stores codes that the DDEC does not retain according to
some users.
Dash Air Conditioning/heating
information:
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RedDot R-5045
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Top view showing defrost duct connections
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Back view showing defrost duct connections
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I wanted to document the dash AC/heater system I
installed. The dash unit I selected was a RedDot R-5045 shown in the
photo shown above (click here for a spec.
sheet). This unit is rated at 33,000 BTU cooling and 46,000
heating!
I have the heating hooked to one zone of my Aqua-hot and it really does the
job! Nice part about it is that it will defrost the windshield before you
even start the engine!!!
The Cooling is fabulous. I hooked it to the truck compressor that was on the
Series 60 engine. The compressor is Climate Control ET-210L-25150.
The BEST part of the evaporator is that there is a control to divert the air
from the front outlets you see in the picture to a rear opening. That
opening in an ambulance or armored car diverts the output from the front to
the back (or through wall). For our application, you can make a manifold
with tubes to hook to the existing defroster hoses (see photo above). Viola,
you have defrosters AND heat/AC.
For the AC I used R134 barrier hose all the way
(expensive, but I got a good deal from a company that wanted to get the
older inventory out of their system). I used -8 (1/2 inch) for the pressure
side and -10 (5/8 inch) for the suction side. Here is the system I
used:
http://hydraulics.eaton.com/products/pdfs/A-HOAC-MS002-E.pdf
For the heating part of the system, I also used hose to the Aqua-Hot and
then to the dash heating unit. The hose I used was very heavy duty Aeroquip
FC332. The brochure for that product line is found at:
http://hydraulics.eaton.com/products/pdfs/ja262b.pdf
I used hose for both applications partly because of my background (retired
as Chief Engineer at the Gates Rubber Co) and partly because I had some good
sources. Also, it is much easier to run hose as opposed to copper tubing.
There is not much variation of AC hose other than it must be R134 capable
with a barrier shield. Most AC hose sold today will be of the variety.
When it comes to coolant/heater hose, there are huge differences. You always
want to use what is called wrapped hose (several plies of fabric) as opposed
to the knit construction that your get for your car. Gates Green Stripe is a
good hose. The wrapped hose will have a texture on the outside that looks
like a fabric.
For our application this is a SUPER system! It is a bit expensive (I was
able to find an old stock slightly damaged unit for quite a bargain), but it
is simple and really works!
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